Rio 2016 Diary: A storm in a biscuit packet

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  • Biscoito Globo: Brazil's most discussed biscuit.

    RIO DE JANEIRIO — One New York Times writer seems to have created something of a storm in a biscuit tin here in Rio in the last few days – or rather a biscuit packet.

    In an article headlined ‘Rio’s Carnival for the Senses Ends at the Food Line’, David Segal had a go at the famous Biscoito Globo, which you see for sale just about everywhere you go in the city, particularly near the beaches.

    These aren’t just any biscuits though. The small doughnut-shaped treats are more of a Brazilian institution. It doesn’t really matter what they taste like when you’ve grown up with them and they’re part of your national psyche.

    Among other criticisms, Segal wrote: “It is crumbly texture and nothing else – air turned into a doughnut-shaped wafer. Pop one in your mouth, and it is as if your teeth are at a party to which your tongue was not invited.”

    The backlash was impressive as Brazilians took to social and traditional media to defend their beloved Biscoito Globo. Twitter went crazy, newspapers ran columns, websites put up articles(!).

    Criticism of the transport system between Olympic venues in Rio is okay, slating the quality of water is acceptable, but the cherished biscuits – oh no, it was like the very soul of Rio had been attacked.

    This of course raised my personal intrigue so, with a small break between covering canoeing and athletics events, I set out on a Biscoito Globo mission. I didn’t have to go far. A street stall down the road supplied the necessary goods for my investigation.

    The stall owner had a little chuckle at this gringo buying Biscoito Globo and went on to tell me she had tripled her sales since the offending article was published. She’s certainly not complaining.

    THE VERDICT

    They’re really more of a crisp than a biscuit. Admittedly, they don’t taste like much. The overriding flavour is vegetable oil – but they’re crunchy and slightly salty and you can imagine after a long day on Copacabana beach they might be quite satisfying. That’s what the Cariocas (Rio residents) say anyway.

    Who would have thought such a simple street snack could cause all this fuss.

    As I heard someone say, if ever there was an Olympic medal for defence of a national institution, Brazil would have the gold for sure.

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